In the shadow of Liverpool ONE's modern retail landscape lies Cleveland Square, a cobbled area of historic significance that many city residents and visitors overlook. Despite being just moments from the busy junctions of Paradise Street and Hanover Street, this quiet square offers a unique glimpse into Liverpool's past while housing a community of independent businesses and long-term residents who value its distinct character.
Key Takeaways
- Cleveland Square is a historic area located in the heart of Liverpool city centre, often missed by passers-by heading to Liverpool ONE.
- Historically, it was the centre of Liverpool's original Chinese community before its destruction during the May Blitz of 1941.
- Today, it is home to a mix of independent businesses, including a vet, a dog groomer, and a popular halal café.
- Business owners and residents appreciate its quiet, village-like atmosphere but also highlight the challenges of its low visibility.
A Quiet Corner in a Bustling City
Cleveland Square presents a stark contrast to its immediate surroundings. While the towering John Lewis Q-Park looms overhead and thousands of shoppers pass by daily, the square itself maintains a tranquil atmosphere with its cobbled streets, mature trees, and low-rise residential buildings. For the businesses that operate here, this sense of being a hidden gem is both a blessing and a challenge.
Ryan Jenkins, who runs DogOne pet groomers, believes the square's overlooked nature is part of its appeal. He finds that while many people don't know the square by name, they instantly recognize it once they arrive.
"I think that's maybe the charm of it, the fact that it's overlooked. It's a lovely quaint square with the trees outside and the cobbled street. It feels like the city has grown around the square and the square has kept its old charm and individuality."
This sentiment is shared by others who work in the area. The square offers a peaceful enclave away from the main commercial thoroughfares, creating a close-knit community feel among the businesses and residents.
The Voices of Cleveland Square
The unique character of Cleveland Square is best understood through the experiences of those who work and live there. Each business and resident contributes to the fabric of this small but resilient community.
The Local Businesses
Rebecca Thammer, who works at The Liverpool Vets, confirms that the square's location can be confusing for new clients. "We do get a lot of calls about where we are based," she said. "Before I worked here, I'd never come to this square either. It was just a part of town that you by-pass in a way."
Despite this, she describes it as a "lovely place to work," highlighting the friendly relationships between neighbouring businesses and residents. The presence of a veterinary clinic, a dog groomer, a café, and a barbershop creates a self-contained service hub for the local community.
Tom Starkey, manager of Thoughtfully Café, has seen his business become a popular destination for Liverpool's Muslim community. The café's commitment to serving exclusively halal food and no alcohol, combined with long opening hours from 8:30 am to 9:00 pm most days, fills a specific niche.
"The previous owners brought in halal options like chicken and turkey bacon. It's nice to know that we've actually got those options because it's an answer for everyone," Tom explained. He noted that while business was challenging during Ramadan, things are improving. Initiatives like joining the Too Good to Go app have helped increase visibility.
Attracting Footfall
Tom Starkey believes the square's main challenge is diverting people from the main shopping routes. "Most people get to John Lewis, revert back on themselves or go down Hanover Street," he said. "We want people to know the places here."
The Resident Experience
Life in Cleveland Square offers a unique city centre living experience, but it is not without its difficulties. Maria Carney, a 71-year-old resident, points to issues with late-night noise and parking. "They’re here at all times and they’re allowed to be," she said, expressing frustration over a lack of input from residents. "My friend got a parking ticket for parking outside my house."
However, other residents have a more positive view. One woman, who moved to the square from nearby tenements, enjoys the relative quiet. "I like it. I’ve always lived in the city centre," she commented. While acknowledging that the nearby car park darkens her living room, she finds the overall atmosphere pleasant.
A Deep and Significant History
Cleveland Square's modern identity is layered upon a rich and poignant history. The square is named after John Cleveland, who served as a mayor of Liverpool and an MP in the early 18th century. But its most significant historical role was as the heart of Liverpool's original Chinatown.
Liverpool's First Chinatown
In the early 20th century, Cleveland Square, along with Pitt Street and Frederick Street, formed the epicentre of the city's burgeoning Chinese community. This area was home to Chinese sailors and their families, establishing a vibrant cultural hub near the docks.
By the 1930s, the Great Depression had taken its toll on the shipping industry, and the area had fallen into dereliction. The city council had plans for redevelopment, but world events intervened dramatically.
The Impact of the May Blitz
In May 1941, the Liverpool Blitz saw the Luftwaffe unleash devastating bombing raids on the city. The docklands area was a primary target, and the original Chinatown was almost completely destroyed. Historical photographs from September 1941 show the widespread destruction around Cleveland Square and Pitt Street.
This catastrophic event forced the Chinese community to relocate further inland. They established a new community around Nelson Street, Great George Street, and Duke Street—the area that is now internationally recognized as Liverpool's Chinatown, home to the largest ceremonial arch outside of China.
The Square Today: A Blend of Old and New
Today, Cleveland Square stands as a quiet testament to the city's ability to evolve. The historic cobbles remain, but the community is entirely different. The businesses that have chosen to set up here contribute to a modern, diverse Liverpool while operating from a location steeped in history.
The square's charm lies in its ability to be both central and secluded. As Tom Starkey of Thoughtfully Café puts it, "We are a little out of the way from town, but still close enough for you to get right back into it. It's convenient, it's nice, it's quiet."
For those who take a moment to step off the main path, Cleveland Square offers more than just a cup of coffee or a haircut. It provides a connection to a forgotten chapter of Liverpool's story—a resilient space that has survived economic hardship and war to find a new purpose in the 21st century.